This wine is a little like Rhys Ifans in The Replacement. Wiry as all heck, but an essential member of your squad. It’s a gloriously faithful expression of what Italian Nebbiolo is meant to be, but with a little more charm, and at one eighth of the price. It may lack a little of the gravitas that a genuine Barolo would afford one, but it is the cheapest school fees you’ll ever pay to be educated on this classic Italian cultivar.

It also happens to be made by probably the leading authority on Italian cultivars, Henry Kotze, who also happens to:

a) make the the award-winning Ayama Vermentino,

b) make the country’s only trousseau bottling, and

c) garnered the title of the Platter Guide’s Newcomer Winery of the Year 2020.

It is the leanest of the Morgenster range, but what it lacks in creature comforts, it makes up for in delightful distinctiveness.